This morning at 08:30 we landed at
Bruceneset. Our high winds and grey
skies from yesterday evening accompanied us on shore. Snow squalls whipped across the barren
landscape. We are still very high in the
Arctic at N 79˚ 44’ and the weather
underscored that fact. Once on shore,
the Expedition Team established a perimeter within which we were free to
wander.
Right beside the landing site stood a small
trapper’s hut. Most of us took the time
to poke our heads inside. Cozy for one.
Two people would cause a claustrophobic response.
Not far from the hut was an old whaler’s
grave. No one knows who lies here or
what befell him. The solitary grave
certainly gave one pause for thought.
What a lonely place to end your days.
The austerity of the landscape, the solitude of
the tiny hut, the lonely whaler and the onset of autumn Arctic weather combined
in a powerful way. Bruceneset left an
indelible impression on our minds not just of cold weather but of the cold and
inhospitable nature of life in the Arctic.
We had a many miles to travel before our next
scheduled landing at Graveneset in Magdalena Fjord. As always, sea time is lecture time on board
Fram. We had three different lectures in
the afternoon each of which was aimed at a different language group.
As we approached our landing site at 16:00 we
became aware that another ship was there ahead of us. It was the MS Expedition from G Expeditions. It was not the Fram that was in error. Our schedule was published and approved six
months ago but in the spirit of Arctic cooperation we agreed to delay our
landing operations so we could both complete our programs. Besides, you never know when you may need a
friend or a favour when you’re high in the Arctic!
At about 17:00 the Expedition Team went on shore
to prepare the landing site. Light snow fell throughout the landing. This morning at Bruceneset we were pensive at
the lonely whaler’s grave. Here at
Gravneset lay 130 whalers from a period spanning two hundred years. Any romantic notions of the life of a whaler
were dispelled upon visiting this sombre cemetery.
Meanwhile, 23 hikers set off with two members of
the Expedition Team to hike deep into Gullyfbukta. With such a small group and everyone a good
hiker, they made excellent speed. Not
only did they reach Gullybreen (glacier) but they were able to walk high enough
on the glacier where they had an excellent view of the seracs above the
terminus.
What is the furthest north that you have gone
swimming? Try N 79˚33’. Yup.
Numerous people went for a polar plunge at the end of the landing. My goose bumps got goose bumps just watching
them.
